Build Diary
- Details
- Written by: Gordon
- Category: Build Diary
- Hits: 6
Preparing for the initial engine fit I begin marking out the rear firewall for the cooling and fuel system as per the factory diagrams.
I need to drill holes for the cooling swirlpot and expansion tanks and brackets.
I first drill the brackets and then clamp the tanks to the brackets to mark the holes.
These Cleko grip clamps have an amazing grip .
I also need to prepare the bracket to mount the Aircon Drier
The Header and expansion tanks have gone a bit dull whilst in storage and I give them a polish with Solvol Autosol, some of the small marks created in storage are sanded
out with progressively finer grades of wet and dry before polishing, they come up pretty good.
- Details
- Written by: Gordon
- Category: Build Diary
- Hits: 6
I ordered the clip open alarm from the factory but I am not that keen on the 'simple' LEDs for the Dash.
I think a rear boot lid lamp looks better and would also like a buzzer.
I open the wiring and after checking it out, I need to rejig it a bit to work with the LED lamp in the boot lid that I propose to use.
Originally the 12 Volt flashing LEDs have both their Anodes connected to +12v and the switch makes or breaks the ground path from each Cathode
I rewire so that the Cathodes are common to the ground with the +12 Volt feed via the switches to the Anodes, that way I can tap the two Anode feeds and use a pair of diodes to then connect to the boot lid LED lamp and Buzzer.
The diodes s allow the connection of the single Billet lamp and Buzzer. If not used then my wiring would cause one clip open LED to trigger the other. That way I can keep the two original LEDs and discretely locate them on the drivers A post. That way I will be able to quickly identify which side is open.
- Details
- Written by: Gordon
- Category: Build Diary
- Hits: 7
An exciting day on the drive I have now taken delivery of a standard LS3 from Parts World Performance.
The crate was delivered on a pallet and placed in my garage.
The packaging removed an I can admire its beauty.
To transfer the engine to the stand proved challenging, this was due to the width between the legs of my engine crane fouling pallets preventing to get the hoist close enough even at full extension.
I place a strong strop around the lower pallet and slowly manage to drag the engine out of the garage to give more space.
The legs of the engine stand are around the same hight as the lower pallet and I am able to gradually move the crate onto these legs.
I could then get the hoist close enough to lift of the crate.
The engine will stay on this stand until I am ready for the first trial fit - that way I can move if required.
The engine will stay on the stand for the time being until the ancillary kit arrives. This will make it easy to as well as changing the deep sump which it came with to one that will not stick below the chassis line.
- Details
- Written by: Gordon
- Category: Build Diary
- Hits: 5
I continue tidying up the wiring loom, the Ford mirror switch that Ultima supply comes with a packet of crimp connectors. - I don't like individual connectors pushed onto a multi block.
I prefer a more positive connection and look on ebay. I manage to get a connector with some wiring attached from a Ford (the switch seems common to many Ford cars).
I cut the wires down and solder to the Ultima loom, covering the joints with heat shrink.
This gives a neater more secure connection and finish
- Details
- Written by: Gordon
- Category: Build Diary
- Hits: 6
After some time juggling with paper images of the gauges and buttons I finally decide on a layout for the dash.
I drill the holes with a step drill for the buttons and a hole saw for the gauges. Final sanding to size was done with a sanding wheel in the drill.
I test fit the gauges and switches for a visual check although if I didn't like there would a lot of work to correct it.
The loom has to be unravelled to reach some of the buttons, some cables need to be extended and new connectors fitted to match the Billet switch blocks.
Later when I remove the tub to fit the throttle position sender I will tidy up the harness with some fresh looming tape as well as giving it a deep clean before finally securing the body work..