Build Diary
- Details
- Written by: Gordon
- Category: Build Diary
- Hits: 4
Because I have chosen the Autobionics 'cool air intake' solution for the LS3, I also had to use their engine mount system to locate the engine further back from the cabin bulkhead to provide sufficient clearance for the air filter and intake pipe.
This creates a challenge with the long tail G50/52 transaxle that I have. If I was to fit the rear grill on the inside of the clip, when selecting first, third, fifth or reverse gears, the linkage would make contact with the grill and push it outwards. Making a clearance hole would look clunky at best. Not fitting the grill makes it look incomplete.
I figure that I need to rebate the grill into the opening. I tape some cardboard to the outside of the opening and with a Sharpie transfer the opening onto it from the inside. Once cut out I trace around it onto some hardboard this enabled me to correct the edges a bit to ensure a good fit in the opening, allowing clearance for the grill thickness using some grill offcuts I had as shims.
Once I was happy with this template, I transferred it to some one inch thick plywood I had. The advantage of this is it is solid enough to dress the grill around all of the edges. The disadvantage of this is it is solid enough to resist bending to recreate the curvature of the rear clip.
I cut another piece of the plywood with a curve that I need and strap the curved surface to the back of the template and apply as much tension as I can. I repeated this several times also soaking the wood and leaving it over night. This does not work very well, to assist it I cut a lot of vertical slots in the back of the template with a skill saw and repeat the water and stretching processes. This helps a lot, although it tends to lose its curve quite quickly so when not using it, I strapped it up again.
Using a dead blow hammer and a hide faced hammer I gradually dress the edge of the grill around the plywood template, at the sharper corners I need to cut out small wedges to get a good edge finish. I was surprised how well the grill material could be shaped without the actual mesh pattern getting damaged. I expect the sides that were dressed with the hammers to collapse and flatten but they did not.
Once I am happy with the fit I use the template to cut out under sized holes for the exhaust tail pipes. The grill was then folded inwards over a pair of aluminium rings that the factory suppled many moons back with the grill kit. I believe now they use a two piece anodized set of rings that clamp onto the grill. If am unhappy with my result using the original method I could still go that way.
To secure the grill I will need to remoe the rear clip and drill, rivet and Sikaflex around the edge from the inside. I am saving that job for another day... :-)
- Details
- Written by: Gordon
- Category: Build Diary
- Hits: 6
Fabricate rear grill
Final fit and seal tail pipes
Fit door handles and latches.
- Details
- Written by: Gordon
- Category: Build Diary
- Hits: 10
It has been quite a while since I broke the windscreen. I ordered a replacement pretty much as soon as it happened, it was in stock and was delivered within a few days by courier. I have just been shying away from this task since then.
We are getting near the time to try and fit it again. I have made some trial fits and feel I am nearly ready. I mask the fibre glass and windscreen in readiness.
I mark locations that the rubber spacers will sit and put some Sharpie alignment marks across the masking tape edges.
Note the left hand door mirror only has one screw at the moment, hence it is drooping
- Details
- Written by: Gordon
- Category: Build Diary
- Hits: 8
Before starting the engine I double check oil level.
I turn the starter over with the fuel pumps and ECU fuses removed and check I can get an oil pressure reading.
Finally it is time to start it.
It sounds like a beast.
- Details
- Written by: Gordon
- Category: Build Diary
- Hits: 10
When trying to fit the starter motor I encounter a new challenge with the transaxle.
The starter motor supplied from Ultima appears to be the correct one for G50/52 transaxle. The end of the shaft should insert into bearing in the bell housing part of the transaxle. My transaxle appears to have had this part removed from the housing so instead of a small bearing, there is a hole about 50mm in diameter.
The starter motor being unsupported at the far end can move about and jumps out of engagement with the ring gear.
I run through ideas in my mind, such as build the hole up with aluminium weld and machine a hole, but it would be challenging to accurately locate the hole, and my milling machine would be too small to do the job. Other ideas were along the lines of machine a block of aluminium with the correct size bearing hole and then gradually reducing its size until it would fit in the hole, it could then be welded in placed and blended in with carbide burrs, files etc.
Looking around the internet I found a high torque starter motor from Heritage Parts Centre. This was not that cheap, coupled with the fact I also paid a fair bit for the one from the factory. I take some measurements and Heritage confirm that this should be fine for the G50/52. This starter has a much thicker shaft section and does not need or use the end bearing.
When fitting it though it appears that shaft touches the outer edge of the clutch. I verify this by the use of a mirror and torch.
I decide that there should be enough material to allow me to machine part of the shaft housing down.
I make a bracket from a piece of cast iron salvaged from an old washing machine, this bracket was then secured to the mill table and the motor bolted to it. A machinist's jack was then used to support the shaft. I gradually mill a flat on the side until the housing undercuts the gear teeth.
Once reinstalled I can easily tighten the securing nuts and see a clear gap between starter motor and clutch. Connecting a battery to the starter confirms it can turn the engine over.